Advice on Iceland

Everyone I know (slight exaggeration) seems to be heading for Iceland these days, so I thought I’d gather the advice in one place so I wouldn’t have to repeat it! My husband P.J. and I spent 6 days in Western Iceland at the end of August 2016, so this is based on our experiences there and as usual, YYMV.

General

iceland_driving

Yes, it is amazing. If in doubt, see this video.

Yes, it is expensive. You can save some money by using AirBnB and going self-catering (self-catering is often the only option in rural areas anyway).

There’s very little public transport outside Reykjavik, so it’s worth hiring your own car. We hired an ancient Toyota Yaris from SAD Cars. It got us where we needed, except it needed a lot of encouragement to get up hills and a lot of control getting down them!

Some good advice on driving in Iceland in this video.

If you don’t fancy driving, a number of tour buses go from Reykjavik to most of the main attractions.

Credit cards are accepted pretty much everywhere, but they usually require chip-and-pin.

Icelanders are generally friendly and open-minded, but there are a few tourist faux pas you should avoid.

Weather in summer is not dissimilar to Ireland, except a bit colder and drier. We were lucky enough to avoid rain and it was mostly clear and sunny; the temperature reached 18C one day, but was mostly around 12C. Wear layers.

The tap water is perfectly safe to drink.

The hot water will sometimes smell of sulfur, but that’s just because it’s geothermally heated so it’s quite safe (and environmentally friendly).

Golden Circle

geysirs

Includes Thingvellir (tectonic plate boundaries and ancient parliament), Geysir (the original), and Gullfoss (impressive waterfall). Very popular, but for good reason and definitely worth doing.

Bourganes

Blómasetrid

Good stop-off on the way to the Snaefellnes Peninsula.

We had a lovely lunch in Blómasetrið cafe and flower shop.

The Settlement Museum is interesting enough but predictably pricey and not as good as the Reykjavik one. If it’s a nice day you could skip it for a stroll along the shore.

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

snae_park

Probably the highlight of the trip. Plenty of unworldly scenery and hikes through lava fields. It’s also a stopping point for many migrating birds, but we were at the wrong time of year for that.

Like most of Iceland, Snæfellsnes is sparsely populated and there aren’t many services. It’s a good idea to fill up on petrol and stock up on food before you hit the peninsula.

I can highly recommend Gunnar’s farmhouse at Öxl for accomodation (self-catering).

The supermarket at Olafsvik closes at 6pm, although the nice cashier let me in a few minutes after that.

The information centre for the Snæfellsjökull National Park is very helpful. Maps for hiking trails are 600kr and worth getting. Also has probably the only public toilet in the park!

Reykjavik

reykjavik

Nice place, but more like a provincial town than a capital city. Most Icelanders (228k out of 320k) live in or around Reykjavik, although these days you’re likely surrounded by tourists.

Must-sees are the Hallgrímskirkja Church and the Settlement Museum.

We skipped the Blue Lagoon and went to the local hot baths, which were a fraction of the price and probably just as nice.

The Call of the Running Tide

I wrote this short story some years ago, and it was originally published in Crannog Summer 2012. Five years later, I think it deserves another outing.

All photos are from Flickr and licensed under Creative Commons.

The first two keys don’t work, but the third turns in the lock with a clunk, and I lift up the lid of the chest. My breath catches at the sight of the pelt, and my quivering hand strokes the soft grey fur.

Downstairs, the front door opens. I hastily lock the chest and shove the keys into my jeans, brushing dust from my knees. John is already in the kitchen, checking the vegetables as they bubble in the pot.

“We’ve had an offer for the house,” he says.

My heart sinks. I open the window to hear a wash of wave and wind rush up towards me, and to taste the brine on my tongue.

“I don’t want to move,” I say.

“We’ve talked about this already.”

“And you never listen. I’ve told you I can’t live inland.” With one deep breath, a waft of salty air enters my nostrils.

“Can’t we just eat our dinner?” he snaps.

He sits down and I take the sea trout from beneath the grill, setting it out on two plates. His grey-blue eyes glare, those eyes that I used to think were the colour of the sea. Now they seem more like the colour of the shore, of foam on shale. I close the window and slip into the chair opposite him.

“Is this trout fresh?” John takes a bite.

“I bought it yesterday from the fishmonger by the pier.” It would taste good, but for the bitterness in my mouth.

“You went out to sea, didn’t you?” It is an accusation.

**

Yesterday, as usual, I went to the pier. The breeze lifted the hairs on my arm and the smell of the sea made my blood rush. The bay was sheltered and the wind low; the waves were child-sized, breaking with a fizzle of foam that spread like fingers and sunk slowly into the sand. Spring had not yet given way to summer, so there were few tourists around. A young boy clambered down the rocks, his trousers rolled to his knees, carrying a bucket to collect shells. The Bed-and-Breakfast signs advertised vacancies, and Fergus advertised his wildlife trips: STELLA MARIS BOAT TOURS. BIRDS AND OTHER ASSORTED SEALIFE.

Fergus winked at me. A few white hairs escaped from his peaked cap; his cheeks were threaded with red lines and slapped with sea spray. The Stella Maris bobbed in the water, orange fenders bumping the harbour wall.

“You’ve passed here many times, young lady, and I know you want to come out on the boat.”

“I’ve no money.”

“Ach, there’s always room for one extra.”

I followed his nod across the plank to the boat, where a group of noisy Italian teenagers had boarded and an American couple consulted their guidebook. Fergus’s son pulled in the fenders and the engine started to churn up the water. Seagulls shimmied their wings and squawked as they flew off.

As the Stella Maris sailed out from harbour, she fell into a smoother rhythm: throbbing forward, rebounding up, and bouncing down again. The sun was bright, but any heat was blown off by the wind. A teenage girl held on to the edge, her boyfriend with his arm around her waist as he whispered something Italian in her ear, his face lost in her windblown hair.

We passed Heart Rock, where the cormorants nested and the seals stretched out, sun sparkling on their damp coats – mostly grey, some with brown dappling. One female shook her back flippers and pushed herself, pregnant belly and all, towards the water. One male, with a russet tinge to his coat, lifted his head and let out a bark as his black eyes caught mine. As the boat moved away from the seal colony, I leaned against the rail and stifled a low moan.

**

We go to the pub after dinner, as we often do on a Friday. Sullivan’s is busy, although not as full as it will be later in the summer. The smokers gather around the patio heaters outside, and inside the American couple from the boat are still tracing lines in their guidebook.

By the mock fireplace, under the framed swordfish, a man with russet hair plays a guitar. I sit next to him when John goes to the bar. The strumming hands are dappled with soft freckles, and the chords resonate under my skin.

“Do I know you?” I ask.

He stops playing, but the music is still inside me.

“You should come home,” he says.

“I can’t.” My throat hurts.

“He won’t let you?”

My nod is so tiny, I don’t know if he sees.

John places the drinks in front of us and sits close. One hand goes around my waist, and the other is stretched towards the guitar player, so I am pinned as the two men shake hands.

“Are you two friends?” John asks.

The guitar player says nothing, but resumes playing. From over his pint John glowers at him, and then at me, and I wonder what happened to the man I once loved.

How many years since I first met John? It was the same season as now: late April or early May. I saw him from the beach before he saw me, and on his second glance he nearly doubled back in shock.

“Who are you?” he asked.

I guess he wasn’t expecting to meet a naked woman, gleaming in the moonlight; round of breast, belly and hips.

“I’m from the sea,” I told him.

He laughed. “The sea brings in some fine treasures.”

He took off his jacket and wrapped it around my shoulders, fastening two buttons in front of my chest. We both sat on the rocks, and I tucked the ends of his jacket around my knees, the arms hanging down like flippers.

He stroked my hair. How gentle he was! For the first time, I longed for someone of the land.

“You went for a swim this early in the year?” he said.

“I don’t mind the cold. I had this to keep warm.” I patted the seal pelt that lay on the rock beside me.

He laughed again. “What are you? A mermaid? A sea nymph? A selkie?”

He leaned forward and his lips met mine, his hands caressing my neck. How strange it felt, bare skin against bare skin.

“I’ve heard about selkies.” His hands reached beneath his jacket and around my waist. “Half-human, half-seal. Is it true that if you take their sealskins, they’ll be yours forever?”

How warm his lips were! My blood rushed so fast that my heartbeat drummed any sense from my head.

“It’s true. But I’m yours now because I choose to be.”

He unbuttoned the jacket and I peeled off his clothes. He laid me down on the sand and after our coupling we were washed clean by a wave. Then we curled up together like two pups, but the moonlight cooled our bodies and I shivered.

“Where did you leave your clothes?” he asked.

His arm was on my shoulder as we walked over towards the rock. I reached for the sealskin.

“No, I meant your real clothes,” he said. “You can stop playing now.”

“Playing?”

He frowned, the colour draining from his cheeks.

“Oh, come on! You’re going to tell me now that you’re a real selkie?”

I lifted one eyebrow and smiled.

“Are you going to swim away and leave me?” he asked.

There was a sparkle in his eye that made me want to stay a little longer. I took my sealskin and draped it over his arms, where it dangled awkwardly.

“I don’t have to leave yet. But when it’s time, you have to let me go.”

“I will,” he said.

I believe he meant it, then.

**

A full moon lights our way home from Sullivan’s, but the wind smells of approaching rain. John stomps ahead, and when I dawdle he grabs my arm. His fingers dig into my flesh, and the more I resist the more he jerks me forward.

“John, stop it!”

“Who was that man?”

“Someone from long ago. Why don’t you trust me, John?”

“How can I trust you, when you’re always planning to leave?”

He really is hurting me now. I stifle a whimper and push back against his chest.

“You told me you’d return my skin when I asked! How many times have I asked, and how many times have you refused? You can’t keep me with you forever!”

What happened to the man who gave me his coat and stroked my hair so gently? Is there still kindness walled behind that hard face?

“I can keep you with me as long as I want,” he says.

A seagull squawks overhead, and the sea grows louder in my ears.

**

For if you take the skin of a selkie, they cannot return to the sea.

I found the chest on one of my explorations when John was out of the house. It was an old-fashioned thing, faded red and gold. I tried various keys, pins and hairclips, but only managed to dislodge a few rust chips from the lock. Until today, when the flowerpot fell over and the keychain tipped out with the soil. The third key unlocked the chest and I found my old skin at last.

**

When we arrive home, I switch on the lights in the kitchen to see the unwashed dishes on the table, still stuck with fish bones and potato peel.

“Come to bed,” John pulls at my wrist, but he’s had a few drinks so he loses his grip.

“Not now.”

I kiss him once, behind his ear, and his hair smells warm. If he gave me the choice, would I still want to leave? He climbs the stairs and enters the bedroom, but I stay down here and open the window to breathe the night air. The keychain is hard in my pocket, but I wait. I am good at waiting. When I’m sure he is asleep, I climb the stairs to the attic and reopen the chest to lift out the pelt. A tear falls as I stroke the grey fur, but I wipe it away.

On the road to the beach, I pass the young Italian couple, huddled together against what must be, for them, intolerable cold. Yet I feel warmer than I have for a long time.

Down on the beach there is no-one else around, no-one to see me slip out of my clothes. How strange this human skin feels, how bare, the toes feeling every grain of sand, the breeze lifting goose pimples on my belly. How right the soft, streamlined fur feels as I fit it over my body. My feet slip in first, and soon they are flippers. My head is furry; my whiskers twitch with new smells. I shuffle myself forward awkwardly on the sand, but then a wave hits and pulls me into the sea. Oh yes, the sea, my salt-tear home, running over me.

My seal-eyes look back once, at the lights of Sullivan’s and the Bed-and-Breakfasts. The Stella Maris tinkles as it bobs; I will see it again, I’m sure. But now there is a russet seal out there waiting for me. I dive under and leave the shore behind.

Eight deadly words

 I don’t care what happens to these people.

The “eight deadly words” were probably not first uttered by writer Dorothy J. Heydt on Usenet in 1991, but she was the first to name them as such. They are the words that no writer or producer or actor wants to hear about their work. They are the words that readers utter when they put down a book, or viewers proclaim when they switch off a film or stop watching a television series.

Deadly like a toadstool

Deadly like a toadstool

Those words are “I don’t care what happens to these people”. If you don’t care, why should you read (or watch) on?

Now, “caring” about the characters is not necessarily the same as liking them. Humbert Humbert from Lolita is a vile excuse for a human being. If you find yourself liking him, please get help now. Eva Khatchadourian (We Need to talk About Kevin), J.R. Ewing (Dallas), Joffrey Baratheon (Game of Thrones): these are not nice people. However, you care about what happens to them. You might hope that really bad things happen to them, but you want to know what those bad things are.

“These people” might not even be people. In Watership Down, you come to care about rabbits; in Wall-E, you are emotionally invested in the fate of a robot.

Think of the fiction that has remained with you. The characters are real, and you want to know what happens to them. That’s the reason why readers clamored for more stories about Sherlock Holmes and Anne Shirley; that’s why viewers keep coming back for Tyrion Lannister and Walter White.

I get frustrated by clunky writing or unrealistic plotting or stunted dialogue. But the one thing that will make me stick with a story is that I want to find out what happens. The one thing that will make me put it away is when I just don’t care.

Margaret Elphinstone: journeys by water

About a decade ago, I came across a book by an author I’d never heard of: The Sea Road by Margaret Elphinstone. It started with an old woman telling her story to a young monk; that old woman turned out to be the daughter-in-law of Lief Ericcson, and the first European woman in North America.

My story begins far from Rome, far from this white sun that rises above the rooftops in the middle of the day. It begins in a place that is all water and shadow, where colours melt and change, a place of space and cleanliness, a long way north of here and lost forever in the past.

From The Sea Road

The story started slowly but drew me in, until I was gulping the salt air on a leather boat bound for Newfoundland. And I knew that I wanted to read more by this author.

Elphinstone is a Scottish writer, and if I had to sum up her novels, it would be “stories about water”.  In Voyageurs, a young Quaker travels across the ocean from England to North America, and then upriver into the wilds of Canada. He is searching for his missing sister, but faces challenges to his own idealism in an unfamiliar land.

Islands feature in her other works. Light is a mastery of miniature world-building about a small 19th-century family who run a lighthouse.  Hy Brasil is a modern tale with a contemporary heroine, but it is set on an imaginary land somewhere in the mid-Atlantic, a place of volcanoes and smugglers and forbidden love.

Her latest book, The Gathering Night is a prehistoric story told around a campfire. She takes a known geological event (a mega-tsunami from about 6000 BC) and recreates a world of hunting and gathering, of brutal rituals and tender jokes, making these people seem very different from us and yet not so different after all.

“Kemen! The sea! Look!”

I saw it then, far off under the Sunless Sky. A grey cliff, white-tipped. A cliff made of water. A noise like a mountain falling. My heart turned cold.
From The Gathering Night

Elphinstone’s books are painstakingly researched (for The Gathering Night, she built and sailed her own coracle), but the research is lightly stitched into her narrative and her characters seem like real people of their time and place. It’s a shame she’s not better known.

Morgan Llwellyn: a trip through Irish history

One of my favourite writers is Morgan Llwellyn, an American author of Irish and Welsh ancestry. Although she has written stories set in Britain (The Wind from Hastings) and the European continent (The Horse Goddess and Druids), her most evocative novels are those that that bring the Irish past to life. If you fancy a guide through Irish mythology and history, you could do worse than to explore it through Llwellyn’s prose.

She enjoys rain for its wetness, winter for its cold, summer for its heat. She loves rainbows as much for fading as for their brilliance.
– From Bard: The Odyssey of the Irish

The furthest back in time is Bard: The Odyssey of the Irish, based on early Irish mythology and describing the arrival of the Celts. Red Branch (also published as On Raven’s Wing) is based on the ancient epic Táin Bó Cúailnge and focusing on the story of Cúchulan. Even if you’ve heard these stories before, Llwellyn gives them new life; I knew that Deirdre’s tale didn’t turn out well, but that didn’t stop me from shedding tears.

In a tentative voice he addressed the darkening grey sky. “I am the king,” he said, tasting the words.
– From Lion of Ireland

Fans of the TV series “Vikings” will enjoy the tale of Brian Boru in Lion of Ireland, who took on these fierce warriors and won. 2014 is the thousandth anniversary of his famous victory at Clontarf, so there’s another excuse to read this exciting tale. The story of Brian’s family is continued in Pride of Lions.

I am what they call me, a pirate, she mused. And several other things too, for have I not lived many lives in one?
From Grania: She-King of the Irish Seas

The English Tudor dynasty was a difficult time for Ireland, but that era produced some full-blooded heroes. Among them are the pirate queen, Granuaile (Grace O’Malley), portrayed in Grania: She-King of the Irish Seas. Another is Donal O’Sullivan Beare, depicted in The Last Prince of Ireland (also published as O’Sullivan’s March).

We’re born alone and we die alone, I accept that. But why, God, do we have to be alone in the middle?
From 1921: The Great Novel of the Irish Civil War

For more modern history, Llwellyn produced the “Irish century” novels, beginning with 1916, A Novel Of the Irish Rebellion and finishing with 1999, A Novel of the Celtic Tiger and the Search for Peace. Some of this may seem familiar to people who went to school in Ireland, but for others it is a great introduction to the country and its recent past.

Llwellyn has also written books for younger readers: Strongbow, Brian Boru (a YA version of Lion of Ireland), The Pirate Queen (a YA version of Grania), and The Young Rebels. I haven’t read any of these, but I’m confident that Llwellyn can enrapture young readers as well as older ones.

Daphne du Maurier: a gothic genius

In conjunction with my article about Daphne du Maurier for Amazing Women in History, here is my completely subjective and personal list of her works (the ones that I’ve read), ranked from best to worst.

  1. Rebecca. An obvious one, but it’s a classic for a reason. I first read this book when I was 14 and I was captivated from first line to last. If you haven’t read Rebecca yet, then why haven’t you read Rebecca yet?
  2. The House on the Strand. The decision for second-place was a difficult one, but this pips My Cousin Rachel, if only for the audacity of its ideas. An unusual time-travel book with a not-altogether-likeable hero, it is utterly absorbing.
  3. My Cousin Rachel. Is she or isn’t she a murderer? Should we feel sorry for Phillip or slap him into sense? The story keeps you guessing until the end and the quality of the writing is never more than top-notch.
  4. Frenchman’s Creek. The only du Maurier book that can accurately be termed a romance, but a romance where the heroine is a married woman with children, the hero is a pirate, and the standard happy ending is far from guaranteed. Highly atmospheric.
  5. The King’s General. A gem of historical fiction set during the English Civil War. Du Maurier likes her heroes flawed. There’s witty repartee, battles, card games, hidden passages, and changes-of-fortune aplenty.
  6. The Scapegoat. A man meets his doppelganger, and after a drunken night he finds that they have swapped places. The premise asks for a big suspension of disbelief, but the tale provides a vivid sense of place (rural post-war France), dysfunctional family dynamics, and enough twists to keep the reader guessing.
  7. Jamaica Inn. Gothic with a capital G. This book always reminds me of the poem, “The Highwayman”. Plucky heroines are a cliche, but Mary Yellan is the genuine article. There’s a nasty villain and a bad-boy hero. A bit overwrought, but a lot of fun.
  8. The Birds and Other Stories. Du Maurier proves that she can master the macabre. The title story is quite different from the film. The Apple Tree is a particularly creepy tale.
  9. Don’t Look Now and Other Stories. A mixed bag. The title tale (from which the Nicolas Roeg film was made) and “Not After Midnight” are excellent tales full of suspense and atmosphere. “A Border-line Case” has a number of interesting twists. “The Way of the Cross” and “The Breakthrough” are rambling and a little disappointing.
  10. The Loving Spirit. Du Maurier’s first book, a family saga that introduces her sense of place and slightly unhinged imagination. The first half is better than the second.
  11. I’ll Never Be Young Again. Her second book is an interesting look at her emerging talent. Somewhat episodic and the whiny narrator is rather grating in the end.
  12. Mary Anne. This should have been so good. A gutsy heroine based on the author’s great-great-grandmother, a Regency backdrop, court intrigue. But for some reason the story fell flat.
  13. Rule Britannia. An odd one. Du Maurier tries to do dystopia with Britain occupied by the U.S.A. and a stubborn old lady leading the Cornish resistance. I think this was supposed to be funny, but it never quite manages it.

I’d count the first three books in this list as “must-reads” and the last three as “don’t bothers.

Where I went on my holidays: Morocco 2013

Between October 12th and 24th, my husband P.J. and I visited Morocco, flying into Agadir and out from Casablanca, and keeping a journal along the way. The photos are his; the words are mine.

Overlooking Marrakech

So, why Morocco? A variety of reasons. It seems both exotic and yet accessible. The sound of the place names – Marrakesh, Ourika, Tagoudiche – come musically off the tongue. I have impressions: men in blue turbans, tiled minarets, mazes of stalls selling spices and slippers, red courtyards, shifting sands, lamb and couscous, mint tea. Let’s see how these impressions mesh with reality. Continue reading

Things that are Wrong

“Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not to his own facts.” – Daniel Patrick Moynihan 

There are certain rumours that people keep repeating. They need to stop. They are wrong. Not just “matter of opinion” wrong, but wrongly wrong, like someone who got a PhD in Incorrectness at Mistaken Facts University.

Natural blondes will NOT become extinct in 200 years. Neither will redheads.
This one originates from a misunderstanding of recessive genes. If blondes mate with non-blondes, their children might be dark-haired, but their great-grandchildren may well be goldi-locked. Since there are no known factors that are killing off blondes or preventing them from reproducing, there’s no reason why the fair-hair genes would die off.

Think I’m just having a blonde moment? Read Snopes’ take on the blonde extinction myth.

Women do NOT say 20,000 words a day while men say only about 7,000 (or numbers in a similar ratio). Honestly, if you wanted to make up a statistic like this, you could at least make it credible; I might buy a 20% increase in talkativeness, but nearly 3 times as much? Actually, most studies have found that men and women speak about the same number of words, on average. Individual difference are much more pronounced, so chatty Cathy and silent Sam are balanced out by shy Susie and blabby Bill.

Don’t want to take my word for it? See what Language Log has to say about sex-linked lexical budgets.

People in ancient Rome/Medieval Europe/Colonial America were NOT considered elderly by 30 and at death’s door by 40. It’s true that the increase in life expectancy is one of the great achievements of the modern era. In Medieval Britain, life expectancy at birth was an estimated 35 for both sexes, but this doesn’t mean that a 35-year-old in 1400 was due to drop dead at any moment. The low life expectancy was largely affected by the high child mortality rate. If you survived to adulthood, you had pretty good odds of living to be an old codger.

Don’t believe this old fogey? Check out the facts at the Local Histories page.

So, now you know better and can sound much more sensible in conversation. Or at least, you can avoid a tedious lecture from people like me!

Hello there!

Hi, hola, buongiorno, dzien’ dobry, dia duit to anyone who has stumbled upon my humble blog.

Basically, it’s a drop-box for my writings and various thoughts.

Check out my Auntie and Travel articles (see that menu above).

More to come.

Promise.